Power requirements

Notes about power supply testing ? Unloaded/loaded voltage ? Max current ? Linear vs. switching infos ?

Also see power supply.

=How to identify=

Most first generation AES consoles are 5V only. Some equipped with the board require 9V (see below).

One way to know for sure is to take apart your console and look for a large copper coil and a 5-pin LM2576 chip. If both are present, the console requires 9V.

Beware with only taking in consideration the sticker under the case referring the voltage requirements. There has been an considerable rise in case swapping between consoles, like picking up a good case 9V AES case and replacing for a 5V AES broken case, or even printing fake labels and putting on the a case with the wrong voltage version.

=5V AES= The best idea SNK ever had was to sell a video game console with its power input going straight to all the chips, without any kind of polarity or voltage protection. This probably resulted in many fried consoles and pushed SNK to make the "9V" version.


 * Voltage requirement: 5V +/- 0.2V
 * Current requirement: 2A

Going over 5.2V will more or less quickly kill components. 9V will cook everything. Going under 4.8V can cause glitches or resets.

="9V" AES= Considering the 0.5V max drop of the input diode (D1: SR340) and the minimum voltage for the LM2576, the "9V" version AES console should run fine starting at 7.5V. Using a 5V power supply won't damage anything, it simply won't work.

The LM2576 can work up to 45V but the surrounding components were probably chosen to withstand no more than 12V. The capacitors are rated at 16V.

The current draw is around 750mA at 9V. It can be expected to rise up to 1.5A depending on the game played and the use of headphones.

=MVS= To do.

Do not adjust your cab or supergun PSU 5V output above 5.2V (5.15V ?) to compensate for a voltage drop under load. If there's such a voltage drop, the PSU either has a current rating too low, or needs servicing. Increasing the 5V line's voltage might be a temporary solution for spurious resets, but can slowly deteriorate chips in the long run.

=CD= To do. See NEO-CDA board.